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Motorcoach Use, Care and Maintenance
When you own an RV, you can go wherever the road leads. The entire country is open to you, and opportunities arise that are simply not available to others. However, owning an RV is also a learning experience, with its own unique challenges.
This section provides general information and tips that can help you make safe decisions when purchasing and driving a motorcoach, not to mention advice on using a motorcoach to haul trailers.
This is not a substitute for the technical information found in vehicle owner’s manuals or . Its purpose is to give you some basic information about factors to consider and equipment you will need to ensure your safety and that of your passengers, as well as the safety of other people on the road, when you
are towing a trailer.
Going out RVing is a vacation and an adventure rolled into one. Before going out, though, perform some pre-trip maintenance. Not only will it help your trip go smoothly, it will keep your adventure from spiraling out of control.
Your first step is to make sure the engine is running smoothly. Check the oil, brake fluid and transmission fluid to make sure they are filled. Once you’ve established that the fluid levels are fine, check the motorcoach’s electrical system. Make sure your headlights, tail lights and dashboard lights are all functioning, not to mention the lights in the living quarters. While you’re at it, check your horn and windshield wipers as well.
Inspecting your emergency equipment is a must before taking off on a long trip. Make sure you have a fully-stocked first aid kit, a functioning fire extinguisher and an emergency kit that should at least include a tire pump, spare fuses, flashlight, multipurpose tool, pocket knife, road flares and some canvas work gloves. The final piece of emergency equipment to inspect is your spare tire and vehicle jack.
Finally, get your motorcoach inspected by a mechanic. Ask them to do a maintenance check on it. This usually includes tire rotation, an oil change if necessary and an overall inspection of the vehicle for potential problems.
While driving a motorcoach is easy to learn, it also comes with its own set of challenges. Remember that an RV is much bigger than a car and handles differently as a result.
The two most important differences come when turning and braking. Before taking your motorcoach on the road, go to a large empty parking lot and practice your turns. Remember that your motorcoach will need a wider turn radius than a car, so when making a turn pull out further into the intersection before beginning your turn. Motorcoaches also need more room to slow down, so when driving on the highways always follow the speed limit and keep a good distance between yourself and the vehicles in front of you. When coming to an offramp, slow down well before reaching it to avoid having to decelerate suddenly.
Going slow will also help when you run into bad weather. High winds will affect your motorcoach more than it will a car. Keep a strong grip on your steering wheel and you should be okay. For rain or snow, you just need to slow down. A vehicle like a motorcoach is less prone to skidding than a car because of its lower center of gravity, but at the same time it is much harder to control if it goes into a skid.
Low bridges are another hazard of which you should be aware. Most bridges have their heights displayed to the drivers passing underneath them, so know the height of your motorcoach before you get on the road.
Driving a motorcoach isn’t difficult, and it’s not dangerous if you just take your time and keep your mind on the road.
- Your LP system on your Haulmark motorcoach is one of the more important systems onboard. While race season is primarily in the warm months and the furnace may not get much use, the LP system also fuels the refrigerator, the range, the oven and the water heater. In fact some of these appliances operate on both electricity and LP gas, allowing you to switch back and forth.
LP stands for liquefied petroleum gas and is also known as propane. The gas actually is sold in liquid form and stored in a storage tank in a special cabinet beneath the coach. A panel, usually beneath the slideout, gives you full access to the tank. You Haulmark coach is equipped with a 60-lb./14-gallon tank. One pound of propane produces 36 cubic feet of gas. You can expect to use a couple of gallons of LP a week in warm weather and more if it’s cold and the furnace is operating. Keep track of the gauge to know when you are running low.
To refill the tank, simply drive your coach to any LP fuel site. Many convenience stores have them, as well as facilities catering to RVs. A certified service representative must fill the tank. Your LP tank is not exchangeable. The tank is located outside the coach because the vapors are dangerous, if there is a leak. Never bring the LP containers inside the coach and do not store them in an unventilated area.
The appliances in your Haulmark coach are equipped with electric ignitions. Generally, appliances that operate on both LP and electricity should be switched to electrical mode when traveling. This reduces the chances for an LP leak. Several of the appliances, automatically shift to the electrical mode when traveling.
All appliances in your Haulmark coach are fully functional when you are traveling.
- So, racing season is over. It’s time to kick back with the crew and drink a couple of brews. The motorcoach? Just park it, right? Not so fast. You have some chores to do if you want to use your coach again in the spring. Exposing your coach to freezing weather without preparation can damage a number of systems, such as water lines, tanks and water heaters. And even if you live where hard freezes are rare, your motorcoach still needs attention.
Follow these procedures:- Begin by removing all food and beverages. This includes everything in the cabinets and the refrigerator — even that small jar of mustard in the back corner of the refrigerator. Anything you leave in the motorcoach is subject to freezing or spoiling. Cleaning up an exploded can of Pepsi first thing in spring is not fun. And, food left in the coach can attract rodents and insects, giving you an even bigger headache when you open the coach for spring.
- This is also a good time to give the coach a complete cleaning inside and out. It’s a dirty job, but someone has to do it. Think of it this way: just as your engine needs regular maintenance, your coach needs regular cleaning.
- Drain thoroughly all water tanks, holding tanks, lines and pumps to prevent damage to the RV’s water system. Don’t drain the tanks onto your front lawn. It’s messy and unhealthy. Most campgrounds have dump stations you can use for a small fee. Also remember to drain the water heater and the toilet.
- Use a non-toxic RV anti-freeze to keep any remaining water from freezing in the system. You can find the anti-freeze at your RV supply store. Also, put some RV anti-freeze in each drain.
- Charge wet cell storage batteries to full electrical charge. This should protect them from freezing temperatures. A discharged battery can freeze and be damaged.
- Tape all vents and openings closed, including vents for the furnace and range hood. This will keep mice and other little critters from gaining access to the unit and setting up housekeeping.
- Cover the regulator on the propane cylinder and extinguish all pilot lights.
- You should keep your coach road-ready by running the engine for about 30 minutes each month. Driving the vehicle at highway speed once a month for at least 10 miles keeps the coach in good working order and protects the tires from non-use damage.
- Prepare your generator for winter storage by performing regular maintenance as recommended in your owner’s manual. Also, check the anti-freeze in the generator. As with the motorcoach itself, you should exercise the generator on a regular basis by running it for 30 minutes to an hour each month.
Also, don’t overlook the other elements in your coach, such as the appliances. These also have special storage instructions covered by their own service manuals.
- All your tires should be the same type, size, and construction—do not mix bias-belted and radial tires. In selecting tires , buy the size, type, and load range found on your RV's certification label or in the owner’s manual. Keep in mind that tires have a load rating that indicates the amount of weight they can carry safely. Always maintain proper tire pressure and replace worn tires. If your tires are over five years old, have a professional tire inspector examine them and determine whether they are still fit to be on the road. Remember that your RV may be parked for several weeks before going out on the road again, so always pre-check your tires before starting out.
Your Haulmark trailer is designed to haul all of your cars and gear, but you need to pay special attention to how you load it.
Generally, you should locate 70 percent of the cargo weight in front of the axle center line. This ensures there is sufficient weight on the trailer hitch and that the tow vehicle shares in carrying the cargo weight. If you have too much of the weight in the rear of the trailer, it can cause the trailer to fishtail when driving at highway speed.
Your Haulmark trailer is designed so that when you load your cars, you place them correctly in the trailer. However, other equipment and parts you add can change the weight distribution. Make sure you stow heavier items toward the front of the trailer.
Also, make sure you tie down all equipment and vehicles, and don't spare the money when investing in tie down straps. Use a strap that is rated at three times the weight of the item it secures. In a lock-up situation, a car or anything else in the trailer can triple in weight.
Additionally, you need to stow all cargo or tie it down to prevent it from shifting during the trip. Evenly distribute all materials from side to side. Again, this prevents the trailer from fishtailing.
Some racers even install cameras inside the trailer so they can monitor the load, especially their vehicles, while they are driving.
If your trailer does begin to fishtail as you accelerate to highway speed, the best reaction is to take you foot off the accelerator and allow the vehicle to slow. This should stop the fishtailing. If the oscillation resumes as you increase speed, pull off the road and stop. You need to check your load for balance.
- Roof: Inspect your roof at least once a year. Clean off any loose material.
Frame: Normal road use will eventually chip away at the factory-protected underside of your trailer frame. Check the underside of your frame at least once a year and repair any chips with an automotive undercoating or matching paint. This protection helps prevent rust and deterioration of the trailer frame. An auto supply store is a good source for the undercoating.
Floor: To protect your plywood floor, promote long life and make cleaning easier, Haulmark recommends painting it with an oil-based enamel paint.
Exterior skin: Treat your trailer with the same care as you do your car. Use a mild, non-detergent soap, such as an auto wash, and protect with an automotive-type wax. An auto supply store can provide the appropriate products. Don’t use dish washing soap. These products can remove some of the wax protection on your trailer.
Aluminum rims: Your aluminum rims are clear-coated for lasting protection. Use only gentle cleaning agents on your rims. Never use a cleaner that is lye or acid-based. These will damage the finish. An auto supply store can guide you to the right products.
Brakes: Your trailer brakes should be inspected and serviced annually, or more often if you make substantial use of the trailer.
Ramp door: You should lubricate ramp door hinges with Lithium grease. Also periodically lubricate the ramp door extension.
Huck bolts: Check the huck bolts periodically. If you detect a loose huck bolt fastener, do not tow the trailer. Call your dealer for instructions. Huck bolts are not user serviceable.
- Tow vehicles such as motorcoaches often have more frequent maintenance requirements, including changes of engine and transmission oils and filters, lubrication of components, and cooling system checks. Check your owner’s manual for information on scheduled maintenance of your motorcoach if you frequently use it haul a trailer. Here are some maintenance suggestions.
Tires
Periodic inspection and maintenance of motorcoach and trailer tires and wheels are essential to towing safety, including spare tires. Proper tire pressure affects vehicle handling and the safety of your tires. You can find the correct tire pressure for your motorcoach in the owner’s manual or on the tire information placard. - Underinflation reduces the load-carrying capacity of your motorcoach or trailer, may cause sway and control problems and may result in overheating, causing blowouts or other tire failure.
- Overinflation causes premature tire wear and affects the handling characteristics of the tow vehicle or trailer.
Brakes
On a regular basis, have the brakes on the motorcoach and the trailer inspected. Be sure that necessary adjustments are made and any damaged or worn parts are replaced.
Hitch
Check the nuts, bolts, and other fasteners to ensure that the hitch remains secured to the motorcoach and the coupler remains secured to the trailer. The connection point may require periodic lubrication to permit free movement of the coupler to the hitch ball.
Wiring
Make sure connector-plug prongs and receptacles, lightbulb sockets, wire splices, and ground connections are clean and shielded from moisture. Lightly coat all electrical terminal connections with nonconducting (dielectric), light waterproof grease.
Clean the prongs with very fine sandpaper, being careful not to damage the contact area.
Clean the surface deposits in the connector holes. (Make sure the lights are off to prevent blowing a fuse.) Try to clean off only the deposits and
lubricate lightly with dielectric, light waterproof grease.
Motorcoaches and trailers must be compatible with hitching, braking, and wiring systems to ensure safety.
Hitching Systems
When purchasing a hitch, use the recommendations of Haulmark based on the type and weight of the trailer. Make sure the hitch has provisions for the connection of safety chains, which are required by most states. When connected, safety chains should have some slack to permit sharp turns but should not drag on the road. In addition, they should cross under the trailer tongue to help prevent the tongue from dropping to the road in the event the trailer separates from the motorcoach.
Braking Systems
The selection of a brake system also will depend on your motorcoach and the type and fully loaded weight of your trailer. For a trailer with a loaded weight of more than 1,500 pounds, many states require a separate braking system and a breakaway switch, located on the tongue of the trailer, to activate the trailer brakes in the event the trailer separates from the motorcoach. There are two basic types of brake systems designed to activate the brakes on a trailer:
- Electronically controlled brakes usually provide automatic and manual control for trailer brakes. They require that the motorcoach be equipped with a controlling device and additional wiring for electrical power. These brakes typically have a control box installed within reach of the driver and can be manually or automatically applied. The control box may require adjustment or “tuning in” for variations in trailer load.
- Surge brakes are independent hydraulic brakes activated by a master cylinder at the junction of the hitch and trailer tongue. These brakes are not controlled by the hydraulic fluid in the brake system of the motorcoach. Note: The hydraulic system of the motorcoach should never be directly connected to the hydraulic system of the trailer. These systems are self-compensating and do not require adjustment for variation in trailer load.
Follow the motorcoach manufacturer’s recommendations for brake selection. Some states require braking systems on all axles of the trailer. So, check your state’s requirements by contacting the motor vehicle administration.
Wiring Systems
Federal law requires trailers to have taillights, brake lights, side marker lights, turn signals and side and rear reflectors. Some trailers also have backup lights. To provide power to these lights, a four-way (or more) connector is hooked into the motorcoach’s electrical system.
Because the wiring systems of many tow vehicles use separate wires for turn signals and stop lights, you may need to purchase a taillight converter. This converter will combine these wires so that they can be connected to the trailer lighting system. Most factory-installed towing packages include a trailer wire harness that will perform this function if required. If you tow more than one type of trailer, you also may need to purchase an adapter to accommodate differences in the wiring systems.
- Your ability to handle and control your motorcoach and trailer is greatly improved when the cargo is properly loaded and distributed. Refer to your motorcoach and trailer owner’s manuals to find out how to
- Balance weight from side to side
- Distribute cargo weight evenly along the length of the trailer
- Secure and brace all items to prevent them from moving during travel
- Adjust the height of the tow vehicle/trailer interface
- Apply load leveling (weight distributing hitch bars)
Most trailers and motorcoaches should be level (parallel to the ground) during travel. Check the instructions from your trailer manufacturer to make sure this is correct for your combination of vehicles.
- States and municipalities may require special permits and licenses based on the size and weight of your trailer, especially if it is over eight feet wide. Some states require additional equipment for the motorcoach, such as special side- and rear-view mirrors. Inquire at your local motor vehicle administration to find out what requirements affect you.
If you plan to travel in another state, don’t forget to check its requirements also. For example, surge brakes may not be legal in some jurisdictions. In addition to licenses and permits, there may be weight, height, and width limits for using certain roads, bridges, and tunnels. Also, be aware of restrictions regarding the transport of propane gas and other volatile gases or fuels in tunnels. Don’t forget to contact your insurance company to make sure you have the proper coverage.
- Take time to practice before driving on main roads and never allow anyone to ride in or on the trailer. Before you leave, remember to check routes and restrictions on bridges and tunnels. Consider the following safety tips each time you drive with a trailer.
General Handling
- Use the driving gear that the manufacturer recommends for towing.
- Drive at moderate speeds. This will place less strain on your motorcoach and trailer. Trailer instability (sway) is more likely to occur as speed increases.
- Avoid sudden stops and starts that can cause skidding, sliding, or jackknifing.
- Avoid sudden steering maneuvers that might create sway or undue side force on the trailer.
- Slow down when traveling over bumpy roads, railroad crossings, and ditches.
- Make wider turns at curves and corners. Because your trailer’s wheels are closer to the inside of a turn than the wheels of your motorcoach, they are more likely to hit or ride up over curbs.
- To control swaying caused by air pressure changes and wind buffeting when larger vehicles pass from either direction, release the accelerator pedal to slow down and keep a firm grip on the steering wheel.
Braking
- Allow considerably more distance for stopping.
- If you have an electric trailer brake controller and excessive sway occurs, activate the trailer brake controller by hand. Do not attempt to control trailer sway by applying the tow vehicle brakes; this will generally make the sway worse.
- Always anticipate the need to slow down. To reduce speed, shift to a lower gear and press the brakes lightly.
Acceleration and Passing
- When passing a slower vehicle or changing lanes, signal well in advance and make sure you allow extra distance to clear the vehicle before you pull back into the lane.
- Pass on level terrain with plenty of clearance. Avoid passing on steep upgrades or downgrades.
- If necessary, downshift for improved acceleration or speed maintenance.
- When passing on narrow roads, be careful not to go onto a soft shoulder. This could cause your trailer to jackknife or go out of control.
Downgrades and Upgrades
- Downshift to assist with braking on downgrades and to add power for
- climbing hills.
- On long downgrades, apply brakes at intervals to keep speed in check. Never
- leave brakes on for extended periods of time or they may overheat.
- Some motorcoaches have specifically calibrated transmission tow-modes. Be
- sure to use the tow-mode recommended by the manufacturer.
Backing Up - Put your hand at the bottom of the steering wheel. To turn left, move your hand left. To turn right, move your hand right. Back up slowly. Because mirrors cannot provide all of the visibility you may need when backing up, have someone outside at the rear of the trailer to guide you whenever possible.
- Use slight movements of the steering wheel to adjust direction. Exaggerated movements will cause greater movement of the trailer. If you have difficulty, pull forward and realign the tow vehicle and trailer and start again.
Parking
- Try to avoid parking on grades. If possible, have someone outside to guide you as you park. Once stopped, but before shifting into Park, have someone place blocks on the downhill side of the trailer wheels. Apply the parking brake, shift into Park, and then remove your foot from the brake pedal. Following this parking sequence is important to make sure your vehicle does not become locked in Park because of extra load on the transmission.
- When uncoupling a trailer, place blocks at the front and rear of the trailer tires to ensure that the trailer does not roll away when the coupling is released.
- An unbalanced load may cause the tongue to suddenly rotate upward; therefore, before un-coupling, place jack stands under the rear of the trailer to prevent injury.